Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise

By Ruth Reichl

Ruth Reichl’s bestselling memoir of her time as an undercover eating place critic for The big apple Times

Ruth Reichl, world-renowned foodstuff critic and previous editor in leader of Gourmet journal, is aware something or approximately foodstuff. She additionally is aware that because the most crucial nutrition critic within the nation, you should be nameless whilst reviewing the most high-profile institutions within the greatest eating place city within the world—a cost she took very heavily, taking up the guise of a sequence of eccentric personalities. In Garlic and Sapphires, Reichl finds the comedian absurdity, artifice, and excellence to be present in the sumptuously appointed phases of the epicurean international and offers us—along with a few of her favourite recipes and reviews—her notable reflections on how one’s outer visual appeal can impression one’s internal personality, expectancies, and appetites, let alone the standard of provider one receives.

“As a keepsake of her time on the Times she offers us this glorious publication, that is funny—at occasions laugh-out-loud funny—and clever and wise.” —Jonathan Yardley, The Washington Post

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Contents ★ The day-by-day particular Backstory Molly 1 7 23 The King of Spain 35 trying to find Umami Miriam eighty one Meat and Potatoes Chloe Brenda fifty seven 103 a hundred twenty five 153 Dinner with Chairman Punch Betty 181 205 nutrition Warrior 235 The Missionary of the scrumptious Emily 283 Ghosts 307 Recipe Index 329 Acknowledgments 331 261 Also via Ruth Reichl ★ smooth on the Bone convenience Me with Apples The day-by-day specific Y ou gonna consume that? ” the lady is eyeing the tray the flight attendant has simply set ahead of me. I can’t inform if she desires reassurance that I find it as re- pellent as she does or if she is just hungry and hopeful that i'm going to hand my nutrition over. I loosen my seatbelt, swivel within the slim seat, and spot that her face holds a problem. Is she bold me to devour the foodstuff? It steams unappetizingly up at me: a squishy brown sq. of meat surrounded by way of a sticky stockade of potatoes that may were mashed final 12 months. The wrinkled grey peas glance as though they have been born in a laboratory attempt tube. The roll glows with such an unearthly lunar yellow that i will believe its relax earlier than my fingers even contact the outside. The lettuce within the salad has long gone brown on the edges, and the tomatoes are too drained to even fake that nature meant them to be purple. The dressing in its little cup stares up at me, shiny orange. I stare again. “Nah,” says the girl, “you won’t devour that. now not our little Ruthie! ” 2 • Garlic and Sapphires Triumphantly she snatches the neon roll from my plate. “I’d like your butter too, please,” she says, achieving for it. I cease her hand in midair. “Do i do know you? ” I ask. She grins enigmatically, and that i discover that she has a mild hole among her tooth. Her hair is blond and he or she is blowsily appealing; for a second i'm wondering if she’s Lauren Hutton. yet what might Lauren Hutton be doing right here, wedged into guidance, stealing my roll? “No,” she says, retrieving her hand. She snags the butter. “But i do know you. I even recognize why you’re in this airplane. ” “You do? ” I say, particularly stupidly. She has devoured down the roll and now has her eye at the doubtful meat. “Please,” I say, “help your self. ” She grabs the plate. “I didn’t imagine that you'd be consuming this stuff,” she says. “Truth learn, I’d be dissatisfied when you did. ” “But who do you think that i'm? ” I ask. “Oh, sweetie,” she says, the s hissing snakelike from the space in her tooth, “I don’t imagine. i do know. in truth, if you happen to will be type sufficient to inform me the place you’re going to consume after we land in manhattan, you’d be doing me a tremendous want. ” “What in the world are you conversing approximately? ” i'm actually baffled now. She has wolfed up the protein, kept away from the peas, and her light blue eyes are staring longingly on the unhappy salad. “Be my guest,” I say, maintaining out the plate. “Your photo is far and wide New York,” she says, her mouth jam-packed with lettuce. “You’re the eating place critic of the la occasions, yet you’re approximately to turn into an important eating place critic on this planet. you begin on the manhattan occasions on”—she pauses for a second, calculating—“Friday, September 3rd!

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